from the South Pass； and one thousand and twenty…five miles from St。
Joseph。 Fifty…two miles further on； near the head of Echo Canyon； we met
sixty United States soldiers from Camp Floyd。 The day before； they had
fired upon three hundred or four hundred Indians； whom they supposed
gathered together for no good purpose。 In the fight that had ensued；
four Indians were captured； and the main body chased four miles； but
nobody killed。 This looked like business。 We had a notion to get out
and join the sixty soldiers； but upon reflecting that there were four
hundred of the Indians； we concluded to go on and join the Indians。
Echo Canyon is twenty miles long。 It was like a long； smooth； narrow
street； with a gradual descending grade； and shut in by enormous
perpendicular walls of coarse conglomerate； four hundred feet high in
many places； and turreted like mediaeval castles。 This was the most
faultless piece of road in the mountains； and the driver said he would
〃let his team out。〃 He did； and if the Pacific express trains whiz
through there now any faster than we did then in the stage…coach； I envy
the passengers the exhilaration of it。 We fairly seemed to pick up our
wheels and flyand the mail matter was lifted up free from everything
and held in solution！ I am not given to exaggeration； and when I say a
thing I mean it。
However； time presses。 At four in the afternoon we arrived on the summit
of Big Mountain； fifteen miles from Salt Lake City； when all the world
was glorified with the setting sun； and the most stupendous panorama of
mountain peaks yet encountered burst on our sight。 We looked out upon
this sublime spectacle from under the arch of a brilliant rainbow！ Even
the overland stage…driver stopped his horses and gazed！
Half an hour or an hour later； we changed horses； and took supper with a
Mormon 〃Destroying Angel。〃
〃Destroying Angels；〃 as I understand it； are Latter…Day Saints who are
set apart by the Church to conduct permanent disappearances of obnoxious
citizens。 I had heard a deal about these Mormon Destroying Angels and
the dark and bloody deeds they had done； and when I entered this one's
house I had my shudder all ready。 But alas for all our romances； he was
nothing but a loud； profane； offensive； old blackguard！ He was murderous
enough； possibly； to fill the bill of a Destroyer； but would you have any
kind of an Angel devoid of dignity？ Could you abide an Angel in an
unclean shirt and no suspenders？ Could you respect an Angel with a
horse…laugh and a swagger like a buccaneer？
There were other blackguards presentcomrades of this one。 And there
was one person that looked like a gentlemanHeber C。 Kimball's son； tall
and well made； and thirty years old； perhaps。 A lot of slatternly women
flitted hither and thither in a hurry； with coffee…pots； plates of bread；
and other appurtenances to supper； and these were said to be the wives of
the Angelor some of them； at least。 And of course they were； for if
they had been hired 〃help〃 they would not have let an angel from above
storm and swear at them as he did； let alone one from the place this one
hailed from。
This was our first experience of the western 〃peculiar institution；〃 and
it was not very prepossessing。 We did not tarry long to observe it； but
hurried on to the home of the Latter…Day Saints； the stronghold of the
prophets； the capital of the only absolute monarch in AmericaGreat Salt
Lake City。 As the night closed in we took sanctuary in the Salt Lake
House and unpacked our baggage。
CHAPTER XIII。
We had a fine supper； of the freshest meats and fowls and vegetablesa
great variety and as great abundance。 We walked about the streets some；
afterward； and glanced in at shops and stores； and there was fascination
in surreptitiously staring at every creature we took to be a Mormon。
This was fairy…land to us； to all intents and purposesa land of
enchantment； and goblins； and awful mystery。 We felt a curiosity to ask
every child how many mothers it had； and if it could tell them apart； and
we experienced a thrill every time a dwelling…house door opened and shut
as we passed； disclosing a glimpse of human heads and backs and
shouldersfor we so longed to have a good satisfying look at a Mormon
family in all its comprehensive ampleness； disposed in the customary
concentric rings of its home circle。
By and by the Acting Governor of the Territory introduced us to other
〃Gentiles；〃 and we spent a sociable hour with them。 〃Gentiles〃 are
people who are not Mormons。 Our fellow…passenger； Bemis； took care of
himself； during this part of the evening； and did not make an
overpowering success of it； either； for he came into our room in the
hotel about eleven o'clock； full of cheerfulness； and talking loosely；
disjointedly and indiscriminately； and every now and then tugging out a
ragged word by the roots that had more hiccups than syllables in it。
This； together with his hanging his coat on the floor on one side of a
chair； and his vest on the floor on the other side； and piling his pants
on the floor just in front of the same chair； and then comtemplating the
general result with superstitious awe； and finally pronouncing it 〃too
many for him〃 and going to bed with his boots on； led us to fear that
something he had eaten had not agreed with him。
But we knew afterward that it was something he had been drinking。 It was
the exclusively Mormon refresher； 〃valley tan。〃
Valley tan （or； at least； one form of valley tan） is a kind of whisky；
or first cousin to it； is of Mormon invention and manufactured only in
Utah。 Tradition says it is made of （imported） fire and brimstone。 If I
remember rightly no public drinking saloons were allowed in the kingdom
by Brigham Young； and no private drinking permitted among the faithful；
except they confined themselves to 〃valley tan。〃
Next day we strolled about everywhere through the broad； straight； level
streets； and enjoyed the pleasant strangeness of a city of fifteen
thousand inhabitants with no loafers perceptible in it； and no visible
drunkards or noisy people； a limpid stream rippling and dancing through
every street in place of a filthy gutter； block after block of trim
dwellings； built of 〃frame〃 and sunburned bricka great thriving orchard
and garden behind every one of them； apparentlybranches from the street
stream winding and sparkling among the garden beds and fruit treesand a
grand general air of neatness； repair； thrift and comfort； around and
about and over the whole。 And everywhere were workshops； factories； and
all manner of industries； and intent faces and busy hands were to be seen
wherever one looked； and in one's ears was the ceaseless clink of
hammers； the buzz of trade and the contented hum of drums and fly…wheels。
The armorial crest of my own State consisted of two dissolute bears
holding up the head of a dead and gone cask between them and making the
pertinent remark； 〃UNITED； WE STAND（hic！）DIVIDED； WE FALL。〃 It was
always too figurative for the author of this book。 But the Mormon crest
was easy。 And it was simple； unostentatious； and fitted like a glove。
It was a representation of a GOLDEN BEEHIVE； with the bees all at work！
The city lies in the edge of a level plain as broad as the State of
Connecticut； and crouches close down to the ground under a curving wall
of mighty mountains whose heads are hidden in the clouds； and whose
shoulders bear relics of the snows of winter all the summer long。
Seen from one of these dizzy heights； twelve or fifteen miles off； Great
Salt Lake City is toned down and diminished till it is suggestive of a
child's toy…village reposing under the majestic protection of the Chinese
wall。
On some of those mountains； to the southwest； it had been raining every
day for two weeks； but not a drop had fallen in the city。 And on hot
days in late spring and early autumn the citizens could quit fanning and
growling and go out and cool off by looking at the luxury of a glorious
snow…storm going on in the mountains。 They could enjoy it at a distance；
at those seasons； every day； though no snow would fall in their streets；
or anywhere near them。
Salt Lake City was healthyan extremely healthy city。
They declared there was only one physician in the place and he was
arrested every week regularly and held to answer under the vagrant act
for having 〃no visible means of support。〃 They always give you a good
substantial article of truth in Salt Lake； and good measure and good
weight； too。 ＇Very often； if you wished to weigh one of their airiest
little commonplace statements you would want the hay scales。＇
We desired to visit the famous inland sea； the American 〃Dead Sea；〃 the
great Salt Lakeseventeen miles； horseback； from the cityfor we had
dreamed about it； and thought about it； and talked about it； and yearned
to see it； all the first part of our trip； but now when it was only arm's
length away it had suddenly lost nearly every bit of its interest。 And
so we put it off； in a sort of general way； till next dayand that was
the last we ever thought of it。 We dined with some hospitable Gentiles；
and visited the foundation o