advanced towards Venice； accompanied by a numerous floating cortege。 We
followed； the Emperor in little black gondolas； which looked like
floating coffins； with which the Brenta was covered； and nothing could be
stranger than to hear； proceeding from these coffins of such gloomy
aspect； delicious vocal concerts。 The boat which carried his Majesty；
and the gondolas of the principal persons of his suite； were handsomely
ornamented。
When we arrived at the mouth of the river we were obliged to wait nearly
half an hour until the locks were opened； which was done by degrees； and
with every precaution； without which the waters of the Brenta； held in
their canal and raised considerably above the level of the sea； would
have rushed out suddenly； and in their violent descent have driven our
gondolas along before them； or sunk them。 Released at last from the
Brenta； we found ourselves in the gulf； and saw at a distance； rising
from the midst of the sea； the wonderful city of Venice。 Barks；
gondolas； and vessels of considerable size； filled with all the wealthy
population； and all the boatmen of Venice in gala dress； appeared on
every side； passing； repassing； and crossing each other； in every
direction； with the most remarkable skill and speed。
The Emperor was standing at the back of the peote； and； as each gondola
passed near his own； replied to the acclamations and cries of 〃Viva
Napoleone imperatore e re！〃 by one of those profound bows which he made
with so much grace and dignity； taking off his hat without bending his
head； and carrying it along his body almost to his knees。
Escorted by this innumerable flotilla； of which the peote of the city
seemed to be the admirals vessel； his Majesty entered at last the Grand
Canal； which flowed between magnificent palaces； hung with banners and
filled with spectators。 The Emperor alighted before the palace of the
procurators； where he was received by a deputation of members of the
Senate and the Venetian nobility。 He stopped a moment in the square of
St。 Mark； passed through some interior streets； chose the site for a
garden； the plans for which the architect of the city then presented to
him； and which were carried out as if it had been in the midst of the
country。 It was a novel sight to the Venetians to see trees planted in
the open air； while hedges and lawns appeared as if by magic。 The entire
absence of verdure and vegetation； and the silence which reigns in the
streets of Venice； where is never heard the hoof of a horse nor the
wheels of a carriage； horses and carriages being things entirely unknown
in this truly marine city； must give it usually a sad and abandoned air；
but this gloom entirely disappeared during his Majesty's visit。
The prince viceroy and the grand marshal were present in the evening when
the Emperor retired； and； while undressing him； I heard a part of their
conversation； which turned on the government of Venice before the union
of this republic with the French Empire。 His Majesty was almost the only
spokesman； Prince Eugene and Marshal Duroc contenting themselves with
throwing a few words into the conversation； as if to furnish a new text
for the Emperor； and prevent his pausing； and thus ending too soon his
discourse； a genuine discourse； in fact； since his Majesty took the lead；
and left the others but little to say。 Such was often his habit； but no
one thought of complaining of this； so interesting were nearly always the
Emperor's ideas； and so original and brilliantly expressed。 His Majesty
did not converse； as had been truthfully said in the journal which I have
added to my memoirs； but he spoke with an inexpressible charm； and on
this point it seems to me that the author of the 〃Journal of Aix…la…
Chapelle〃 has done the Emperor injustice。
As I said just now； his Majesty spoke of the ancient State of Venice； and
from what he said on this occasion I learned more than I could have done
from the most interesting book。 The viceroy having remarked that a few
patricians regretted their former liberty； the Emperor exclaimed；
〃Liberty； what nonsense！ liberty no longer existed in Venice； and had；
indeed； never existed except for a few families of the nobility； who
oppressed the rest of the population。 Liberty； with a Council of Ten！
Liberty； with the inquisitors of state！ Liberty； with the very lions as
informers； and Venetian dungeons and bullets！〃 Marshal Duroc remarked
that towards the end these severe regulations were much modified。 〃Yes；
no doubt；〃replied the Emperor。 〃The lion of St。 Mark had gotten old；
he had no longer either teeth or nails！ Venice was only the shadow of
her former self； and her last doge found that he rose to a higher rank in
becoming a senator of the French Empire。〃 His Majesty； seeing that this
idea made the vice…king smile； added very gravely； 〃I am not jesting；
gentlemen。 A Roman senator prided himself on being more than a king； a
French senator is at least the equal of a doge。 I desire that foreigners
shall accustom themselves to show the greatest respect towards the
constituted authorities of the Empire； and to treat with great
consideration even the simple title of French citizen。 I will take care
to insure this。 Good…night； Eugene。 Duroc； take care to have the
reception to…morrow all that it should be。 After the ceremony we will
visit the arsenal。 Adieu； Messieurs。 Constant； come back in ten minutes
to put out my light； I feel sleepy。 One is cradled like an infant on
these gondolas。〃
The next day his Majesty； after receiving the homage of the Venetian
authorities； repaired to the arsenal。 This is an immense building；
fortified so carefully that it was practically impregnable。 The
appearance of the interior is singular on account of several small
islands which it incloses； joined together by bridges。 The magazines and
numerous buildings of the fortress thus appear to be floating on the
surface of the water。 The entrance on the land side； by which we were
introduced； is over a very handsome bridge of marble； ornamented with
columns and statues。 On the side next the sea； there are numerous rocks
and sandbanks； the presence of which is indicated by long piles。 It is
said that in time of war these piles were taken up； which exposed the
foreign vessels； imprudent enough to entangle themselves among these
shoals； to certain destruction。 The arsenal could formerly equip eighty
thousand men； both infantry and cavalry； independent of complete
armaments for war vessels。
The arsenal is bordered with raised towers； from which the view extends
in all directions。 On the tallest of these towers； which is placed in
the center of the building； as well as all the others； sentinels were
stationed； both day and night； to signal the arrival of vessels； which
they could see at a very great distance。 Nothing can be finer than the
dockyards for building vessels； in which ten thousand men can work with
ease。 The sails are made by women； over whom other elderly women
exercise an active surveillance。
The Emperor delayed only a short time to look at the 'Bucentaure'； which
is the title of the magnificent vessel in which the Doge of Venice was
accustomed to celebrate his marriage with the sea； and a Venetian never
sees without deep chagrin this old monument of the former glory of his
country。 I； in company with some persons of the Emperor's suite； had as
our guide an old mariner； whose eyes filled with tears as he related to
us in bad French that the last time he witnessed the marriage of the Doge
with the Adriatic Sea was in 1796； a year before the capture of Venice。
He also told us that he was at that time in the service of the last Doge
of the republic； Lord Louis Manini； and that the following year （1797）；
the French entered Venice at the exact time when the marriage of the Doge
to the sea； which took place on Ascension Day； was usually celebrated；
and ever since the sea had remained a widow。 Our good sailor paid a most
touching tribute of praise to his old master； who he said had never
succeeded in forcing himself； to take the oath of allegiance to the
Austrians； and had swooned away while resigning to them the keys of the
city。
The gondoliers are at the same time servants； errand boys； confidants；
and companions in adventures to the person who takes them into his
service； and nothing can equal the courage； fidelity； and gayety of these
brave seamen。 They expose themselves fearlessly in their slender
gondolas to tempests； and their skill is so great that they turn with
incredible rapidity in the narrowest canals； cross each other； follow；
and pass each other incessantly； without ever having an accident。
I found myself in a position to judge of the skill of these hardy
mariners the day after our visit to the arsenal。 His Majesty was
conducted through the lagoons as far as the fortified gate of Mala…Mocca；
and the gondoliers gave as he returned a boat…race and tournament on the
water。 On that day there was also a special representation at the grand
theater； and the whole city was illuminated。 In fact； one might think
that there is a continual fete and general illumination in Venice；