And I was not allowed to take her arm； and thus to appropriate her；
as I should have done in England。 〃No； John；〃 she said； with the
sweetest； prettiest smile； 〃we don't do that here； only when people
are married。〃 And she made this allusion to married life out；
openly； with no slightest tremor on her tongue。
〃Oh； I beg pardon；〃 said I； drawing back my hand； and feeling angry
with myself for not being fully acquainted with all the customs of a
foreign country。
〃You need not beg pardon；〃 said she； 〃when we were in England we
always walked so。 It is just a custom； you know。〃 And then I saw
her drop her large dark eyes to the ground； and bow gracefully in
answer to some salute。
I looked round； and saw that we had been joined by a young cavalier；…
…a Spanish nobleman； as I saw at once； a man with jet black hair； and
a straight nose； and a black moustache； and patent leather boots；
very slim and very tall； andthough I would not confess it then
uncommonly handsome。 I myself am inclined to be stout； my hair is
light； my nose broad； I have no hair on my upper lip； and my whiskers
are rough and uneven。 〃I could punch your head though； my fine
fellow；〃 said I to myself； when I saw that he placed himself at
Maria's side； 〃and think very little of the achievement。〃
The wretch went on with us round the plaza for some quarter of an
hour talking Spanish with the greatest fluency； and she was every
whit as fluent。 Of course I could not understand a word that they
said。 Of all positions that a man can occupy； I think that that is
about the most uncomfortable； and I cannot say that； even up to this
day； I have quite forgiven her for that quarter of an hour。
〃I shall go in；〃 said I； unable to bear my feelings； and preparing to
leave her。 〃The heat is unendurable。〃
〃Oh dear； John； why did you not speak before？〃 she answered。 〃You
cannot leave me here； you know； as I am in your charge； but I will go
with you almost directly。〃 And then she finished her conversation
with the Spaniard； speaking with an animation she had never displayed
in her conversations with me。
It had been agreed between us for two or three days before this； that
we were to rise early on the following morning for the sake of
ascending the tower of the cathedral； and visiting the Giralda； as
the iron figure is called； which turns upon a pivot on the extreme
summit。 We had often wandered together up and down the long dark
gloomy aisle of the stupendous building； and had； together； seen its
treasury of art； but as yet we had not performed the task which has
to be achieved by all visitors to Seville； and in order that we might
have a clear view over the surrounding country； and not be tormented
by the heat of an advanced sun； we had settled that we would ascend
the Giralda before breakfast。
And now； as I walked away from the plaza towards Mr。 Daguilar's
house； with Maria by my side； I made up my mind that I would settle
my business during this visit to the cathedral。 Yes； and I would so
manage the settlement that there should be no doubt left as to my
intentions and my own ideas。 I would not be guilty of shilly…shally
conduct； I would tell her frankly what I felt and what I thought； and
would make her understand that I did not desire her hand if I could
not have her heart。 I did not value the kindness of her manner；
seeing that that kindness sprung from indifference rather than
passion； and so I would declare to her。 And I would ask her； also；
who was this young man with whom she was intimatefor whom all her
volubility and energy of tone seemed to be employed？ She had told me
once that it behoved her to consult a friend in Seville as to the
expediency of her marriage with me。 Was this the friend whom she had
wished to consult？ If so； she need not trouble herself。 Under such
circumstances I should decline the connection！ And I resolved that I
would find out how this might be。 A man who proposes to take a woman
to his bosom as his wife； has a right to ask for informationay； and
to receive it too。 It flashed upon my mind at this moment that Donna
Maria was well enough inclined to come to me as my wife； but 。 I
could hardly define the 〃buts〃 to myself； for there were three or
four of them。 Why did she always speak to me in a tone of childish
affection； as though I were a schoolboy home for the holidays？ I
would have all this out with her on the tower on the following
morning； standing under the Giralda。
On that morning we met together in the patio； soon after five
o'clock； and started for the cathedral。 She looked beautiful； with
her black mantilla over her head； and with black gloves on； and her
black morning silk dressbeautiful； composed； and at her ease； as
though she were well satisfied to undertake this early morning walk
from feelings of good naturesustained； probably； by some under…
current of a deeper sentiment。 Well； I would know all about it
before I returned to her father's house。
There hardly stands； as I think； on the earth； a building more
remarkable than the cathedral of Seville； and hardly one more grand。
Its enormous size； its gloom and darkness； the richness of
ornamentation in the details； contrasted with the severe simplicity
of the larger outlines； the variety of its architecture； the glory of
its paintings； and the wondrous splendour of its metallic decoration；
its altar…friezes； screens； rails； gates； and the like； render it； to
my mind； the first in interest among churches。 It has not the
coloured glass of Chartres； or the marble glory of Milan； or such a
forest of aisles as Antwerp； or so perfect a hue in stone as
Westminster； nor in mixed beauty of form and colour does it possess
anything equal to the choir of Cologne； but； for combined
magnificence and awe…compelling grandeur； I regard it as superior to
all other ecclesiastical edifices。
It is its deep gloom with which the stranger is so greatly struck on
his first entrance。 In a region so hot as the south of Spain； a cool
interior is a main object with the architect； and this it has been
necessary to effect by the exclusion of light； consequently the
church is dark； mysterious； and almost cold。 On the morning in
question； as we entered； it seemed to be filled with gloom； and the
distant sound of a slow footstep here and there beyond the transept
inspired one almost with awe。 Maria； when she first met me； had
begun to talk with her usual smile； offering me coffee and a biscuit
before I started。 〃I never eat biscuit；〃 I said； with almost a
severe tone； as I turned from her。 That dark； horrid man of the
plazawould she have offered him a cake had she been going to walk
with him in the gloom of the morning？ After that little had been
spoken between us。 She walked by my side with her accustomed smile；
but she had； as I flattered myself； begun to learn that I was not to
he won by a meaningless good nature。 〃We are lucky in our morning
for the view！〃 that was all she said； speaking with that peculiarly
clear； but slow pronunciation which she had assumed in learning our
language。
We entered the cathedral； and； walking the whole length of the aisle；
left it again at the porter's porch at the farther end。 Here we
passed through a low door on to the stone flight of steps； and at
once began to ascend。 〃There are a party of your countrymen up
before us；〃 said Maria； 〃the porter says that they went through the
lodge half an hour since。〃 〃I hope they will return before we are on
the top；〃 said I； bethinking myself of the task that was before me。
And indeed my heart was hardly at ease within me； for that which I
had to say would require all the spirit of which I was master。
The ascent to the Giralda is very long and very fatiguing； and we had
to pause on the various landings and in the singular belfry in order
that Miss Daguilar might recruit her strength and breath。 As we
rested on one of these occasions； in a gallery which runs round the
tower below the belfry； we heard a great noise of shouting； and a
clattering of sticks among the bells。 〃It is the party of your
countrymen who went up before us；〃 said she。 〃What a pity that
Englishmen should always make so much noise！〃 And then she spoke in
Spanish to the custodian of the bells； who is usually to be found in
a little cabin up there within the tower。 〃He says that they went up
shouting like demons；〃 continued Maria； and it seemed to me that she
looked as though I ought to be ashamed of the name of an Englishman。
〃They may not be so solemn in their demeanour as Spaniards；〃 I
answered； 〃but； for all that； there may be quite as much in them。〃
We then again began to mount； and before we had ascended much farther
we passed my three countrymen。 They were young men； with gray coats
and gray trousers； with slouched hats； and without gloves。 They had
fair faces and fair hair； and swung big sticks in their hands； with
crooked handles。 They laughed and talked loud； and； when we met
them； seemed to be racing with each other； but nevertheless they were
gentlemen。 No one who knows by sight what an English gentleman is；
could have doubted that； but I did acknowledge to myself that they